Equipment building
Hello Hide Club! This is a video + some instructions from FOUNDATIONS 2024 on Equipment building. I plan to update the video and get you a smoother experience for 2025. In the meantime, check this out if you want to get ahead early + start sourcing your lumber now. Note: our deer hides this year are quite large. I recommend opening + placing your deer hide in the middle of your frame before you fasten it to ensure your frame is at least 6” bigger than your deer hide all around.
Natural + artisan hide tanning requires very little infrastructure, and all of it is simple to make. Craft skills tend to be transferable, i.e. when you skill-build in hide tanning, you become a more proficient woodworker, and vice versa. If you’re new to building anything with wood lumber, this moment can be intimidating, but in just a few short steps you can create the two pieces of equipment you need to be able to tan full-sized hides indefinitely into the future.
The wet-scraping beam and the softening/dry-scraping frame.
The wet-scraping beam is a round surface (it’s the white PVC pipe in the photo) on a sturdy footing.
The softening + dry-scraping frame is a large flat square, strong enough to withstand the inward pressure of the hide.
Your cut lists
Beam Type I: freestanding
PVC pipe for the beam: one round log or pipe that is 4"-6” in dimeter and 5ft long (that's one 10ft PVC pipe cut in 2 with a hand saw. You can ask a lumber store to cut it for you_.
2x4 lumber for the stand: in total, you want 1 10-ft 2x4 and 1 8ft 2x4. Together, you’ll cut them into 2 three-ft lengths for the “X” and 2 five-ft lengths* for the horizontal bracing, plus have a 6-8” piece left over for the end stopper.
*Note: these two lengths will ultimately be 41-45”, and one will be 1.5” longer than the other to account for the cross-beam of the X.
The lumber is fastened together with 2.5” nails (permanent and study) or screws (dismantle-able). The PVC rests on top and does not get fastened. It is removable.
Beam Type 2: the lean-to
PVC pipe for the beam: one round log or pipe that is 4"-6” in dimeter and 5ft long (that's one 10ft PVC pipe cut in 2 with a hand saw. You can ask a lumber store to cut it for you_.
2x4 lumber for the stand: in total, you want 1 eight-ft 2x4. You’ll cut into 2 three-ft long pieces. You’ll secure the pipe to the 2x4s with 2 3” screws.
At the base of the pipe, you’ll need to lean against a wall, a cinder block, a garden edge, or any sturdy surface you find. If you use another piece of wood or lumber for your sturdy surface, you can screw the pipe into it as well (see side photos).
Frame Type 1: The light version
Lumber for the frame: in total you’ll want a few pieces of 2x2 and a large chunk of plywood. You have choices for the 2x2 lengths, depending on what’s available at your lumber store. (BTW you see two frames in the photo above. You only need to make one and lean it against a wall). Here’s your options:
(1) 2 lengths of 2x2 at 10’ + 1 length of 2x2 at 8’. You’ll cut the 10’ lengths into 6’/4’ and 6’/4’. You’ll cut the 8-ft lengths into 16”/16”/16”/16”.
(2) 4 lengths of 2x2 at 8’. You’ll cut this into 4’/4’; 6’/2’; 6’/2’; 16”/16”. You’ll have more left over lumber than option 1.
(3) 2 lengths of 2x2 at 12’. You’ll cut one into 6’/6’ and the other into 4’/4’/16”/16”/16”/16”
Plywood for the frame: I recommend 1/4” plywood. The thicker you get, the heavier your frame will be. You’ll want 2 squares of plywood at 14”x14”x14”x14”. Cut each of these in half along the diagonal to make 4 triangles. Your hypotenuse will be 19 3/4”.
Fasteners: you’ll want 20-30 2.5” screws + 2-3 pounds of 1” roofing nails (broadhead - for outdoor use so they are rust resistant) + 20-30 1” screws.
Staggering the beams (creating legs): stagger the beams 6” from the tip of the legs to crate a 5’ long rfame. This is a good length of most sheep and deer.
Frame Type 2: The heavy version
Lumber for the frame: Using 2x3 instead of 2x2 lumber makes for a heavier and stronger frame. It does not require plywood. This size of lumber is much stronger than we need for most sheep and deer but is great for larger deer. I use 2x3 lumber for my Elk and Bear racks - rarely do we need to use 2x4 lumber for frames. Many frames are “overbuilt” with too-thick lumber to compensate for poor shape.
* Important: when using 2x3 or thicker lumber, it’s best to turn the lumber ‘inwards’ as pictured here. This is the strongest orientation of the lumber and will make your frame withstand the torque and shear pressure of the hide.
(1) 2 lengths of 2x3 at 10’ + 1 length of 2x2 at 8’. You’ll cut the 10’ lengths into 6’/4’ and 6’/4’. You’ll cut the 8-ft lengths into 16”/16”/16”/16”.
(2) 4 lengths of 2x3 at 8’. You’ll cut this into 4’/4’; 6’/2’; 6’/2’; 16”/16”. You’ll have more left over lumber than option 1.
(3) 2 lengths of 2x3 at 12’. You’ll cut one into 6’/6’ and the other into 4’/4’/16”/16”/16”/16”
Fasteners: you’ll want 20-30 3” screws + 2-3 pounds of 1” roofing nails (broadhead - for outdoor use so they are rust resistant)